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The short story of a new crag



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Dubbed 'Burbage by the sea' this small crag offers some short routes on compact sandstone reminiscent of gritstone. The main crag is about 10m high and well featured with many types and grades of routes to go at. Most have probably been climbed at some point, but little has been recorded. The belays at the top are often tricky as its basically just a field of stones, few of which are big enough for anchors. There is also a small lower tier which can be accessed by a short down climb (Diff) to add a few more routes.


Take the A970 south towards the airport, just after crossing the Sumburgh runway take the right turn to Scatness. Follow the road to the end, parking at the turning area. Walk through the gate and down the grassy track. At the end of the wall on the left, turn West (right) towards the sea and you'll hit the crag.


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[nggtags album=Scatness]


  1. Wilson Moir says:

    Found this crag pretty sandy and a bit unpleasant. Rather misleading to compare it to Burbage! Also did the “dws” below the fort. Given 12 m but barely 12 feet and about 4 moves long. Not really worth recording?

    • Al says:

      Yeah we went to Scatness on slightly OTT reviews! The routes to the right were ok when we did them, but not enough of the good rock to quite warrant the Burbage comparison I agree! I’ll change that… Which DWS do you mean?

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