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The short story of a new crag


Fogla Taing

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This crag offers great climbing on hard and solid sandstone. Routes up to 35m are usually much harder than they first appear! There are a few sectors here and much more potential at the crag for hard new routes.


Park at Troswickness (HU 409 172) and head 600m South-East to the crag south of the large inlet. Abseil to ledges below.


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  1. Ian Parnell says:

    Great crag but tough grades
    I bottled it on Ancalagon of Morgoth escaping up a v wet but still excellent Spyro instead. Other members of the party had their own fun and games on Kalessin which they felt more E1 5c.

  2. Ross says:

    Interesting to note your comments on the grades. The crag is a bit unforgiving. As it happens I was initially aiming for the line of Spyro which was unclimbed at the time and left for Ancalagon looked easier. I’ve made a few ascents of Kalessin now and would still put this as a tough HVS 5a so surprised by the E1 5c. The gear is there and I guess it comes down to finding the right sequence straight off.

  3. martin kocsis says:

    If you go for a direct start up the initial corner then E1 5c sounds about right, a cunning leftwards deviation at the start brings it down to a solid HVS 5b.

    • Ross says:

      Interesting to note your thoughts on the grade of Glaurung Martin. When I made the first ascent in 2007 I gave the route E2 5b, although my second thought I may have undergraded it. I repeated it as a second in 2014 and we both found it tricky in the lower section and strenuous in places, with the desire that gear could be better to stop a fall, hence the upgrade. You may be right with dropping the grade back down. I think I’d go with E2 5c and see what further ascentionists think.

      • Ian Parnell says:

        Ross I think Martin was referring to Kalessin not Glaurung ??
        By the way I’m doing a piece in Climb Mag which will be out next week 11 Oct and be free – I will post links when its out – sorry if that leads to queues at the crag ;-)

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