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The short story of a new crag


Black Crag

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This little crag is great for beginners or an afternoons easy climbing. The routes are short but good fun and the protection and belays are mostly good. It's also close enough to other crags such as the South Gill, Otter's Head and if you're feeling adventurous there are some great routes to be had on the lower tier (Tingon) of the crag if the sea is calm enough.


In Eshaness, take a right turn signposted to Jonnie Notion's Bod, just before the cafe and drive down here for 1 mile. Just before a cattle grid turn right down a gravel track, signposted to Tingon. After about 1 mile, park at a high point, just before the wall and gate. From here walk towards the coast and cross the fence by the sea at the stile. Walk around the inlet and head down onto the slabs below. This is the South Gill and the Black Crag is easiest to find by walking North along the base of the South Gill (10 mins) and around a few narrow passages at the cliff edge until you'll see the Black Crag in front of you.

A direct approach not via the South Gill would shave 5 mins off, but it's tricky to find this way.


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