The Summer so far…

It’s been a quiet period on SCi, and that usually means we’ve been out climbing loads! This summer has been the best for a while so far with calm seas and light winds meaning we’ve got out a lot. The sun has shone plenty too which always helps! There’s a bit too much going on this time of year to report everything so here’s a summary of the summer so far, and a few photos to inspire:

Muckle Roe Camping. Photo: Pete Sawford

Muckle Roe Camping. Photo: Pete Sawford

Muckle Roe

In early June we organised a climbing club trip to Muckle Roe. Now, being honest, climbing club weekend trips tend to be more focussed on beer, camp fires and chilling out than climbing, but we did have a great weekend. We camped out at North Ham and searched the area for some climbing. Ross is going to write an article on the new-found climbing there so I’ll say “watch this space” for now.

Tingon

John at Tingon. Photo: Ross Jones

John at Tingon. Photo: Ross Jones

Tingon has been the crag of choice this year. We’ve added a total of 30 routes so far, more than doubling what was there before! None of the routes have been poor, and there have been several 3 star lines. Quite a venue! I’ll be writing a blog post soon on the entire crag, but if you want to head there before, all the info is written up so you shouldn’t have too much trouble finding your way around.

Otters Head

North of Tingon is an area we call Otters Head. At it’s northern point, called North Head on the map Ross, Andrew and few others have been exploring the potential, and very impressed with the routes there. They’ve added 5 routes so far up to 50m and mostly with stars. It’s definitely worth the extra walk in (You pretty much walk past the Tingon crags to get there!)

Andy at Fidlar Geo. Photo: Ross Jones

Andy at Fidlar Geo. Photo: Ross Jones

Fidlar Geo

Fidlar Geo was only found as a crag last year. Mark, Tony and Dianne kindly wrote up and sent us the info (once they’d done the routes they wanted of course!!). Unfortunately I’ve not been able to make it to the crag on a decent day yet, but plenty of others have. They’ve added some more lines to the main walls, and developed the excellent West Wall 50m away. 17 routes have been added in total.

Grind of the Navir

I’ve been enjoying heading back to the Grind a bit more this year. I’ve been on my own a few times on a shunt playing around on some of the harder routes. A few days ago Andrew and I headed out there and into the South Geo. My potential route was scuppered by a 6b-ish looking headwall so I had to back off, but Andrew at least managed a new route nearby that he had backed off many years ago, so was pleased to have finished that one off!

Matt on Aeon, Eshaness Lighthouse. Photo: Ross Jones

Matt on Aeon, Eshaness Lighthouse. Photo: Ross Jones

Eshaness Lighthouse

The lighthouse hasn’t seen much action this year as we’ve focussed on the other side of Eshaness at Tingon, but Ross did head there recently to add a line he’s had is eye on… As he put it; “Matt and I added a new line at Eshaness Lighthouse on Saturday. I’ve been wanting to climb this line for ages and Saturday was the perfect day for it. The line is a fine balancy pocketed crimp fest with spaced protection. It is on the hanging slab between the existing lines of Narsil and Gurthang.” The route is called Aeon and goes at E2 5c.

Troswick

Andrew and co. have been busy working on a new bouldering venue at Troswick. The area is, in my opinion, one of the best bouldering venues we have. It has short easier walls, some taller walls and aretes, and a brilliant overhanging wall about 30m long. To add to this, the landings are almost all good, its a 5 minute walk from the car and the rock dries quickly and isn’t tidal. If it wasn’t over an hours drive for me to get there I’d be there all the time! Andrew’s going to add a post on the venue soon with photos and topos.

Andy on The Logical Positivist, Ness of Sound. Photo: Ross Jones

Andy at Ness of Sound. Photo: Ross Jones

Ness of Sound

Ness of Sound has always been a crag we’ve wanted to be better than it is! The reason being that it is near Lerwick and so is a good option for an evening. Ross has done some exploring there this year and found some great new routes. Andrew, and others had spotted the “West Wall” years ago but dismissed it as looking pretty chossy, especially at the top. Ross and Andy abbed down to give it a go and it proved to be far better than this, and now has 4 routes with 6 stars between them.

Fethaland

Fethaland is a beautiful part of Shetland. It has been explored for climbing many times but not much was ever found. Ross headed out this year and discovered a few lines worth climbing so has added these over a few trips. While not a crag for a day, the beautiful walk and history of the area make enough of a reason to wander out there, and now with a rack!

Well I hope that’s given you a taster of what we’ve been up to. We’ll try to get some more posts up soon with some more piccies. Enjoy the rest of the summer. Next up for us, Papa Stour.

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