Paddle & Climb


Ready to paddle over from The Blade

The sun is shining more and more at the moment so we took the bank holiday Sunday to head out. There was a bit of westerly swell running and a southerly breeze so finding a suitable crag was tricky as most crags we have face south or west! We eventually decided on Ronas Voe, a great venue on the far shore of Ronas Voe. It’s the first time I’ve been over since buying sea kayaks, and it’s just the perfect way to arrive at the crag. Stuffing the hatches with racks and lunch, we paddled over in 10 minutes or so.

Al on "1674 Route"

Al on “1674 Route”

We intended on just bumbling up the existing routes as a nice early season warm-up but ended up adding 3 more lines to the crags. It was still great to climb some of the best existing routes on the crag too. First up for the new routes, Ross added a tricky E1 to Hollanders Wall taking the right slanting roof between Mussel Beach and Wapen van Rotterdam, a short but worthy challenge. We then headed to climb the brilliant 2 pitch route Self Sufficiency. It’s really 2 separate climbs but being directly above each other with a large grassy ledge in-between it makes sense to climb both.

As Ross seconded I was checking out the next wall up, which had a vague crack running through it. Ross obliged and headed on up. The route proved about E1 5a/b but escaping the bold and tricky finish by heading off left. On second I attempted said finish which could be climbed by pulling on a mono and 2 finger undercut as your only holds, with your gear below your feet, so would push the grade to E2 5c and awaits a lead ascent!

Jonathan on Hollanders Slab

Jonathan on “Hollanders Slab”

New line on The Teogs

New line on The Teogs

Finally we filled in a gap on The Teogs between Up on the Hill and Breech climbing the bottom vertical cracks and the blank wall on the arĂȘte above, at about VS 4b/c. We’ll get these written up and added to the site soon.

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