The Bard – Video

Back in January we mentioned in our 2012 roundup that a few climbers had headed over to look at Bard Head on Bressay in March last year. Ross made a video of the ascents, and we completely forgot to put it up on here, so sorry Ross.

Anyway, here it is, only a year late! The Bard is an impressive sandstone prow on the south of Bressay. The massive WW2 gun still sits at the top providing a handy abseil point for the ~100m cliffs below. 2 routes were climbed last year, both being serious in atmosphere and commitment, rivaling routes at Foula for adventure.

Here’s the writeup:

(HU516357) Mainly Non-tidal South-South East Facing

The sandstone headland below the Bard Gun has a large hanging slab capped by a broken overhang at the top with a right facing curving corner on the left. Climbs start from ledges below overhanging walls beneath the slab. Ledges should be clear except in a large swell.
Approach: Abseil from the large Bard Gun to tidal ledges at the south east end of the wall below the large slab. 100m rope required.

Poetic License 90m E1 5b * Ross I Jones, Andrew Hunter 27 March 2012
Start below a hanging groove/corner system at the left end of ledges. A fine and atmospheric route with an excellent first pitch, marred by some lose rock and poor protection on the second pitch.
1. 30m 5b Climb the hanging corner and belay directly above it.
2. 30m 4a From the belay go left and up onto the slab above. Climb this directly to belay on the arete to the left of the main slab.
3. 30m 5a Climb the wall just left of the arete with a tricky pull up and small over hang to surmount at 20m.

Bard From Bressay 95m E2 5c ** Ross I Jones, Paul Whitworth 23 March 2012
1. 35m 5c Pull up into the hanging corner as for Poetic License. Pull out right and traverse 3m to a small left corner. Climb this and the corner above for 8m. Pull out right 4m below the capping roof on to the arete and make an airy traverse rightwards to a hanging corner. Pull up into this and belay.
2. 30m 5a Climb the corner to ledges beneath the slab. Make an easy rising leftwards traverse up the poorly protected slab to belay in the corner above the first bulge.
3. 30m 5a Climb the corner for 10m, then pull out leftwards and up into a hanging groove. Climb this, pulling out leftwards to finish.

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