Fogla Taing New Routing

Fogla Taing is a superb crag in south mainland near Troswick and first caught the eye of local climbers in 2007. When Ross visited that year a few of us headed over to see what would go. The compact sandstone does not give in easily and the route chosen was never expected to go at hard E2 with a very tricky 5c crux. Ross had a few issues with ropework on the ascent and I videoed it all. Needless to say the footage wasn’t thrilling so it got buried on my computer until I stumbled across it this week. With some serious editing and speeding up it’s now down from 1 hour to 7 minutes, but be warned, it’s still no thriller!

That said, it turned out to be a cracking 2 star route, excellent lead by Ross (eventually) and a scorcher of a day (for Shetland). There are worse places to sit and chill out for an hour watching someone climb!

Fogla Taing has seen many more visits but it remains one of Shetland’s least developed crags with far more top notch routes still to do, though many of them will be mid E-grades (which is partly why they haven’t been done).

Fogla Taing was first ‘discovered’ in 2007 and this was the first route to be climbed. It didn’t quite go to plan for Ross, leading, but at least we videod it all. Take a look at the Fogla Taing crag page in the database.


  1. Ross says:

    Ha ha.

    I’d forgotten that you had filmed the ascent. Are there any prizes for my over optimistic “I think I’m going to have to whip out round the side” at 1:48 in the video?

    A nice line, if I recall … once I’d worked out the line. Although you missed the heal hook that got me part way up the crux before you started filming again. I guess that will have been when you’d have dosed off waiting for me to stop faffing!

    I really should have stripped the gear on the right side straight away rather than faffed around so much, but if I recall the gear on the left was spaced.

    The route awaits a second ascent and a more respectable 20 minutes I think.

  2. Ross says:

    Must of dosed off myself watching the first bit of the video as the heal hook is in there. If I remember Al reached through on second with his long reach!

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